Saturday, November 8, 2014

BOLIVIA (PART II)



Hello again from Cochabamba, where I have been here for a month now mainly doing volunteer work with an association called CECAM.  I apologize in advance for the poor quality photos! I have not been hauling my big camera around town lately, and have mostly been using my cheap camera phone to take pictures.

It’s been a very different experience being in Cochabamba in comparison to the rest of my travels so far in South America. I guess the main explanation for that is that I’ve been in the same city for the last four weeks. Thus, I’ve been able to get to know some other travelers/volunteers and several local Bolivians pretty well. I’ve also gotten to know the city of Cochabamba, although I would not consider myself a local just yet.

Cafe Paris: Jamon, queso, huevos crepe with a side of verduras (24 Bolivianos = $3.25)

After having been on the move from city to city since early July, being now in the same place for a while has kind of given me a temporary “settled down” mentality. I’ve kind of developed a routine especially because of my Monday-Friday volunteer work. There have been lots of advantages to having a routine lifestyle such as eating healthier and being able to exercise more than before. Since I have been living in an actual house for the last month, I’ve been able to do a lot more cooking, rather than eating out all the time.  I wouldn’t say doing my own cooking has saved me money, since restaurants in Bolivia are so cheap, but I’ve been able to have more flexibility in terms of food and portion sizes. In terms of exercising, in my last month I’ve scoped out some good running trails. Also not having to take a 10 hour bus every other day has given me more time to go on runs several times a week. 
Friday night beef skewers street vendor

Typical bus stop in Bolivia, stopping just outside of a round about (on the left)...wonder why there is a major traffic problem in this city?!

The weather here has a Mediterranean feel: hot (30C, 86F) and dry during the day. At night the temperatures are a bit cooler (14C, 57F) so it’s rather comfortable. Cochabamba is at 8,400 ft (2,600m) so I was definitely feeling the altitude during my runs the first few days. Now that I’ve gotten used to the altitude, running here feels almost like running at sea level now.

Fundraiser concert in Cochabamba

 
End of the night 1/2 destroyed Halloween costumes. I was a Truffi (Bolivian 9 person shared taxi) and Carsten (another volunteer) was a Micro (Bolivian bus). See photos below for a real Truffi and Micro!

As I had mentioned above, another advantage of being in the same place for a while is really getting to know some of the other travelers/volunteers. As I mentioned in a past blog entry, in lots of hostels the main conversation you have with another traveler is “Where are you from? Where are you going to? How long are you here for?” and then 24 hours after meeting them, you each go in different directions. Here in Cochabamba, I’ve really gotten to know some people outside of a basic 10 minute conversation. Also having to live in a house with 6-7 other people, share the kitchen, living room, bathroom, shower, etc… makes it feel like having house/room mates again.

Typical street food vendor

The volunteer work has been my main reason for my extended period of time here. I have been volunteering with an organization called CECAM: http://www.cecambolivia.org/web/en/

My morning commute Truffi....my Halloween costume inspiration


Part of my morning commute to my volunteer work


Carsten's Halloween costume inspiration...the Micro bus!

Taken straight from the CECAM website:
“CECAM Bolivia’s mission is to create and implement environmentally sustainable technologies that contribute to improving the quality of life of the Bolivian people. Our efforts mainly take place within small, rural communities. We focus on simple training and education workshops for children as well as healthy and sustainable lifestyle improvements for communities with poor access to water, sanitation, and safe cooking technology.”

Typical scene at my volunteer work

My main focus for this project has been building a solar oven. In other words an oven that only uses sunlight for baking/cooking food or heating/boiling water or liquids. This type of oven is especially beneficial in countries like Bolivia where the altitude is very high (and thus the sun rays are more intense) and where it is very sunny most of the year. In addition to the abundant sunlight, a large portion of the country has little vegetation or trees, and thus wood is expensive and can be difficult to find. The solar oven takes both of these aspects into consideration making it an ideal location to be used. 

Solar oven almost finished.......
After doing some extensive research to figure out the most cost effective and efficient (from a heating perspective) design, I settled on a design that uses ½ a 55 gallon drum, has a wooden frame, and an aluminum interior.  There were two other Canadian volunteers (Carsten and Hayley) working at CECAM as well, but they were working on building a rocket stove. It’s essentially a really efficient wooden stove oven. On their last day, we got to test their oven out by cooking some pizzas in it….turned out to be a success! Another thing I may mention is how many animals there are at the volunteer place (about 6 dogs/puppies and 10 cats/kittens). It seems like it’s more an animal shelter than an actual construction/engineering workshop!

One of many pizzas we cooked in Carsten and Hayley's rocket stove oven.

37 Bolivianos for 1 kg of Argentinean steak. That's $5 for 2.2 pounds!!

Llama beef jerkey

Another big thing I’ve really realized during my trip and especially my time here in Cochabamba is how life is all about balance. I guess the next few paragraphs are more about things I’ve been able to think about a lot in the last few weeks, and may be beneficial to some of the blog readers out there! 

Anyways, if one aspect of life gets focused on too much, and another aspect gets “left out” then life starts to feel disorganized or off its axis. In my opinion, I’ve realized life is separated into 5 aspects (no particular order): Work/profession, religion/spiritual, exercise and health, personal goals, and relationships/social life. I'll go into detail about them below....

 The restaurant owner sometimes uses his restaurant as a parking garage

The “work/profession” one is pretty self explanatory; being at a job that has meaning or feels like your purpose and is fulfilling.  If your work is currently not your passion, then really trying to find a job that you’re passionate about would fit in that category as well. 

“Religion/spiritual” would be focusing on your faith, whatever it maybe and setting aside time in your life on that. If you are not religious, then finding something that puts you in a peaceful mind/state that is still healthy for you (nature, meditation, etc…) 

Exercise and health is about being active from a physical perspective as well as trying to have healthy eating habits. I have noticed how good I feel after a run or some other physical exercise. It’s a really exhilarating feeling that clears my mind when I've got a lot of thoughts or things to think about.

Personal goals would be trying to achieve or learn something outside of work. For example, trying to learn photography, working on a hands on building project, or training for and running a marathon. It could also be projects or events to look forward to such as a vacation or a big event coming up. Having goals to pursue, working hard, and achieving them make you more confident about yourself. This in turn gives you a more positive attitude and motivation to achieve even bigger goals.  

Last but not least is relationships and social life. I think this pillar balances out some of the other pillars, especially the work aspect. Sometimes we get so caught up in our personal lives and habits that we forget that social interactions and relationships with other humans are so important! We are humans, not robots, and all of us need a certain dose of contact with others from our species on a routinely basis! This is a pretty open ended pillar since it can range from hanging out with friends once a week to how you interact with your significant other, kids, or immediate family on a daily basis. Everyone of us has been lonely before, and sometimes it can suck!  On the contrary, I think the pillar of “spiritual/religion” actually benefits from when you are by yourself since you have fewer distractions. But it’s also just as important to spend time with family and friends, so it’s about finding that balance.

Rush hour traffic and sidecar motorcycles

Typical Bolivian almuerzo (lunch): Beets, brocolli, carrots, potatoes, chicken, platanos, sauerkraut, and salsa

Lazy horse riding sundays

I have noticed with my life, when I spend too much time one of these traits, usually another one of the traits kind of falls off my plate. Thus, it is all about balancing these 5 pillars so that all of them fit on the plate that is life. It is very hard to go 100% with all 5 of these aspects since the plate will overflow after a while. Kind of like going to an all you can eat buffet and eating steak, pasta, seafood, salad, Mexican food, Chinese food, and a massive dessert. I guess if you weigh 600 lbs then maybe you could fit it on your extra extra extra large plate, but for most of us, that food just won’t fit on our plates (no offense to any 600 lbs readers of my blog out there!). I think it’s better to average out those pillars so that they all fit on the plate rather than going 100% with 2 things and letting the other 3 fall of the plate. But it is hard to average them out evenly; since there are certain pillars you will naturally enjoy or be more interested in than others. But I think if you strive to improve on balancing those different pieces then life will be more well rounded and fulfilling. Again this is all my opinion. I am consistently trying to follow this philosophy although I am far from perfect at it. One thing I am looking forward to once I finish my trip in the end of December, is to get a fresh start/plate to be able to put all those things to practice and try to balance them as evenly as I can!

Friday afternoon band playing in the main plaza

That’s it for now, stayed tuned for the next blog post wherever I may be!

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

PERU (PART III) & BOLIVIA

Hello from Cochabamba Bolivia!

It’s been a pretty busy last 2 weeks since the last blog entry with a lot of shuffling from city to city, but I have seen so many worthwhile things and places, that it has been well worth it.

Following my recovery day spent in Cusco I was off to Machu Picchu. It started with a 1.5 hour bus ride to the train station and then a 2 hour train ride to Aguas Caliente, the main city next to Machu Picchu. In Aguas Caliente I randomly saw 3 of my dorm mates from my hostel in Cusco and we ended up spending the rest of the afternoon together. The Peruvian elections were coming up so there was a big party that night for one of the city's candidates two blocks from the hotel.

Post election concert
Aguas Caliente

The hike up to Machu Picchu the following day consisted of 1 hr of intense climbing up ~1.8 km of stairs to the entrance of the park and then a guided tour of the ruins.



Seeing Machu Picchu with my own eyes was really something. I had seen pictures of it in books and on the internet but having Machu Picchu right in front of me was incredible. It now makes sense why it is one of the 7 Wonders of the World. 

Machu Picchu



Following my return to Cusco, I met up with a friend from the Montanita Spanish School who was in Cusco at the same time. During our city visit, the highlight of the day was visiting a chocolate museum. The chocolate samples they gave us were really good and made for a perfect post-lunch desert.

That night I made my dinner stop at the local crepe restaurant across the street from the hostel. It was my 3rd time at that restaurant and I still couldn’t get enough of it. The crepes were as authentic if not more than crepes in Paris! Following my crepe dinner, I was off to Puno on a night bus.

The best crepes in South America


My arrival at 4:30 AM in Puno consisted of me waiting 30 minutes in the street in 35°F weather, ringing the hotel doorbell every 3 minutes, until the hotel receptionist finally woke up and opened the door for me. I have to say night buses are convenient at letting you travel at night and making the trip seem “faster”, thus oftentimes saving you on having to pay for a hotel room. The downsides of arriving in the middle of the night are running into problems with too early of a “check in” in hotels and being tired most of the following day.

Puno is the main Peruvian city on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Similar to Machu Picchu, being able to see the highest elevation lake in the world with my own eyes was impressive. The lake is so big that there is no chance I could see the other end.

Election parade in Puno


Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian side


What surprised me with Puno was how easily I got sunburned. I guess with the high elevation (3,800 meters) of the city/lake it makes sense now, but it was something I wasn’t used to when I was near in the Pacific ocean in Peru where I was at sea level. 

My next stop following Puno consisted of crossing the border into Bolivia. The border was really just a crossing over a 20 ft bridge from Peru to Bolivia by foot. There was a lot of traffic on both sides of the border.



The Peruvian side had its traffic backed up due to 20 Peruvians unloading potatoes out of a tractor trailer to then move them across the border into Bolivia in little carts. The Bolivian police station was blocked off for a few minutes due to a trailer carrying baby dippers that had tipped over right in front of the entrance!

A police officer trying to figure out how to lift 300 pounds of diapers

1st meal in Bolivia

Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side


After successfully getting my Peruvian exit stamp and Bolivian entry stamp on my passport I was off to La Paz to meet up with 2 French friends (Martin and Ben) who were traveling through Bolivia for three weeks. After a 3 hour bus ride stuck between several Quechan (indigenous/farmer) women that smelled pretty bad, I finally arrived in La Paz to meet up with my friends. The last time I had seen them was over a year ago in New York City so it was nice to catch up.

The next day we were up at 6 AM to embark on an all day downhill mountain biking trip that would have us ride down for several hours supposedly the most dangerous road in the world = "The Death Road", just outside of La Paz.


The start of the descent

1/2 way down



It ended up being everything it was hyped up to be and everybody in our group made it to the bottom in one piece! On our way back to La Paz we had a stop to cool down at a swimming pool and it felt great.


After surviving the Death Road we had one full day to check out La Paz before catching a night bus to Uyuni.


Hipster shot

Martin wishing he was part of the marching band
We ended up getting seats right above the rear wheels on the second floor of the bus. Within 10 minutes of being on the bus, it was bouncing so much we thought we were already on a dirt road. Well we were just getting on the highway, and so this would be the start of the most uncomfortable bus ride I’ve ever taken. Three hours into the ride we hit the dirt road section and we were literally going airborne everytime the bus hit a pothole or bump. By the time we finally arrived in Uyuni at 5 AM we all had pretty sore backs and little sleep!

Our tour of the Salar de Uyuni started mid morning and we (Martin, Ben, and I) ended up in a jeep with 2 French and 1 Mexican traveler. Our first stop was at an old train wreck that kind of gave us the feel of a ghost town. That was followed by a stop in the desert to take funny perspective photos.



Dinosaurs still roam the Salar de Uyuni



We then got to visit Isla Incahuasu which is an island covered with cactus in the middle of the white salt desert. The scenery kind of reminded me of Death Valley but on a much larger scale. That night we slept in a refuge that had walls made of salt with a pack of lamas sleeping 20 meters away.

Isla Incahuasu



Lamas near our refuge
The following day we got to see some more picturesque landscapes that really made us feel like we were on another planet. The dozens of pink flamingoes eating and swimming in the lagoons was quite a sight to see. We slept that night in another refuge were the outside temperatures ended up dipping down to around 0°C.


Laguna Colorada



The 4:30 AM wake up call the next morning made us feel the cold even more. It reminded me of early morning starts to go skiing during the winter time in the US. The reason for the early wake up was to see the nearby geysers in full effect. Once we got there, the geysers felt like a mini Yellowstone National Park with the very strong “rotten egg” smell due to the sulfur.


One of many geysers


Laguna Verde

A Peruvian shaman (me)

The geysers were followed by a swim in one of the park’s hot springs that felt amazing in almost freezing air temperatures. It was nice to wash off the salt/dirt as well after 4 days without a shower (due to the scarcity of water in the desert), although everybody else had the same idea so the water may have not been so clean! The morning ended up with dropping off the 2 other French travelers at the Chile border since they would be heading into Chile after the Salar, and the rest of us made our 7 hour off road drive back to Uyuni. 

Martin and Ben made their way to Tupiza (southern Bolivia) the following morning, while I started heading back north where I’d be starting my volunteer work in Cochabamba in a few days. Due to the lack of direct buses, I had the following itinerary: Uyuni – Potosi – Ururo – Cochabamba, spread over 2 full days of travel and 3 buses.

I arrived in Cochabamba late Friday night to be told it was election weekend (once every 5 years) and thus there would be strict curfews, almost all stores/restaurants would be closed, and being caught in possession of alcohol or driving a car on any road would result in major fines. Thus it would be a strange start to my 6 weeks in Cochabamba! That weekend I got to meet a bunch of other volunteers, check out the city, and finally settle down in one place for more than a few days. 

Stay tuned in the next blog post where I go in depth about my volunteer experience in Cochabamba, Bolivia!